Puducherry
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Puducherry

French lanes by the Bay of Bengal

Photo: Rainer Halama, CC BY-SA 4.0
Capital

Puducherry

Best time to visit

October to March

Getting there

Chennai airport is about 3 hours away by road. Puducherry has rail links via Villupuram.

Ideal trip

5 to 7 days to cover the highlights

About Puducherry

The former French colony keeps its yellow villas, bougainvillea-lined streets and seaside promenade. Auroville lies just outside.

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Popular cities in Puducherry

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KaraikalMahePuducherry (Pondicherry, Pondy)Yanam

Top places in Puducherry

White TownPhoto: Rainer Halama, CC BY-SA 4.0

White Town

The French Quarter of mustard-yellow villas, cafes and bakeries.

Best time: October to MarchBase: Puducherry2 daysHeritageFoodCity
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From Wikipedia

Pondicherry, officially known as Puducherry, is the capital and most populous city of the Union Territory of Puducherry in India. The city is in the Puducherry district on the southeast coast of India and is surrounded by the Bay of Bengal to the east and the state of Tamil Nadu, with which it shares most of its culture, heritage, and language.

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Promenade BeachPhoto: Karthik Easvur, CC BY-SA 3.0

Promenade Beach

A 1.5 km seafront walk that closes to traffic in the evenings.

Best time: October to MarchBase: Puducherry1 dayBeachCity
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From Wikipedia

Rock Beach is the popular stretch of beachfront in the city of Puducherry, India, along the Bay of Bengal. It is a 1.2-kilometre-long stretch in Pondicherry, starts from War Memorial and end at Dupleix Park on the Goubert Avenue.

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AurovillePhoto: Kaspar Konrad, Public domain

Auroville

An experimental township built around the golden Matrimandir.

Best time: October to MarchBase: Puducherry1 daySpiritualCulture
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From Wikipedia

Auroville is an experimental township in Viluppuram district, mostly in the state of Tamil Nadu, India, with some parts in the Union Territory of Puducherry in India. It was founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa and designed by architect Roger Anger.

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Video by Auroras Eye Film Studio on YouTube

Sri Aurobindo AshramPhoto: Pinakpani, CC BY-SA 4.0

Sri Aurobindo Ashram

The quiet ashram of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother in the heart of White Town.

Best time: October to MarchBase: Puducherry1 daySpiritual
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From Wikipedia

The Sri Aurobindo Ashram is a spiritual community and ashram in Pondicherry, India. It was founded in 1926 by the Indian philosopher Sri Aurobindo and his spiritual collaborator Mirra Alfassa, known as "The Mother". Over the years, the Ashram which also houses the samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother, became the institutional centre of a modern spiritual movement based on Sri Aurobindo’s Integral Yoga.

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Ousteri LakeHidden gemPhoto: Aleksandr Zykov from Russia, CC BY-SA 2.0

Ousteri Lake

A large wetland on the edge of town, great for winter birdwatching and quiet boating.

Best time: November to FebruaryBase: Puducherry1 dayNatureWildlife
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From Wikipedia

Ousteri Lake is a lake shared between the union territory of Puducherry, and the state of Tamil Nadu. The spatial extend of the lake is almost equal in between the two states, and it is one of the largest tanks in the Puducherry region. This lake is also called as Ossudu Lake as it is located in the village named Ossudu. The lake extends to about 800 hectares in which 390 hectares lies in Puducherry and the rest in Tamil Nadu. It is the largest lake of Puducherry.

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ArikameduHidden gemPhoto: PHGCOM, CC BY-SA 3.0

Arikamedu

Remains of an ancient Indo-Roman trading port on the Ariyankuppam river, 2,000 years old.

Best time: October to MarchBase: Puducherry1 dayHeritage
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From Wikipedia

Arikamedu is an archaeological site in Southern India, in Kakkayanthope, Ariyankuppam Commune, Puducherry. It is 4 kilometres from the capital, Pondicherry of the Indian territory of Puducherry. Sir Mortimer Wheeler 1945, and Jean-Marie Casal conducted archaeological excavations there in 1947–1950. The site was identified as the port of Podouke, known as an "emporium" in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and Ptolemy.

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Food to try

French bakery breads, Creole fish curry, crêpes, South Indian meals

Where to stay

Heritage guesthouses in White Town, beach stays near Serenity and Auroville

Getting around

Rent a bicycle or scooter; walk in White Town

Good to know

Visiting the Auroville Matrimandir inner chamber needs advance booking. Rock Beach is car-free in the evenings.

History of Puducherry

Puducherry has a history that reaches back to the ancient Indian Ocean trade. At Arikamedu, a few kilometres south of the town, archaeologists have found the remains of a busy trading port that flourished around the 2nd century BCE to the 1st century CE. Finds such as Roman pottery, wine jars and glass, alongside locally made beads and textiles, show that the site traded with the Mediterranean world. The region was also part of the Tamil country celebrated in early Sangam literature, and the area was known as a place of Vedic learning.

Over the following centuries the region came under several great South Indian powers. The Pallavas of Kanchipuram, the Cholas and the Pandyas each ruled here at different times, and inscriptions and temples from these periods survive in and around the territory. Later the region formed part of the Vijayanagara Empire and then came under various regional rulers. Old temples such as the Varadaraja Perumal Temple and the shrines at Villianur and Bahour reflect this long Tamil heritage.

European traders arrived in the 17th century. The French East India Company set up a trading post at Pondicherry in 1674, and under François Martin it grew into the main French settlement in India. The Dutch captured the town in 1693 but returned it a few years later. The French also acquired Mahe on the Malabar coast, Yanam on the Andhra coast and Karaikal on the Tamil coast in the 18th century. Under Governor Joseph François Dupleix in the mid 18th century, Pondicherry became the base for French ambitions in South India during the Carnatic Wars with the British. The British captured and destroyed much of the town in 1761, and it changed hands several times before it was finally restored to France in 1816.

French rule shaped the town's distinctive layout, with a neat grid of streets and a canal separating the French quarter, now known as White Town, from the Tamil quarter. Visitors can stroll along the seafront Promenade, see the Aayi Mandapam in Bharathi Park, and visit churches such as the Basilica of the Sacred Heart and Notre Dame des Anges, as well as the Manakula Vinayagar Temple. As a French territory, Pondicherry became a refuge for Indian nationalists escaping British authorities. The Tamil poet Subramania Bharati lived here for about a decade, and Sri Aurobindo arrived in 1910. The Sri Aurobindo Ashram, founded in 1926, and the nearby international township of Auroville, founded in 1968, still draw visitors from around the world.

After Indian independence, a movement grew for the French settlements to join India. Chandernagore in Bengal voted to do so in 1949. Following a vote by elected representatives in 1954, the French territories of Pondicherry, Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam were transferred to Indian administration on 1 November 1954. A treaty of cession was signed in 1956 and the transfer formally took legal effect in 1962.

In 1963 the territory became a union territory with its own elected legislative assembly. It is unusual in being made up of four separate regions spread across three states: Puducherry and Karaikal within Tamil Nadu, Mahe in Kerala and Yanam in Andhra Pradesh. In 2006 the official name of both the town and the territory was changed from Pondicherry to Puducherry, which remains the capital.

Puducherry: quick answers

What is the best time to visit Puducherry?

October to March

How do I reach Puducherry?

Chennai airport is about 3 hours away by road. Puducherry has rail links via Villupuram.

How many days do I need for Puducherry?

Plan 5 to 7 days to see the highlights, such as White Town, Promenade Beach, Auroville.

What food should I try in Puducherry?

French bakery breads, Creole fish curry, crêpes, South Indian meals

Where should I stay in Puducherry?

Heritage guesthouses in White Town, beach stays near Serenity and Auroville

Neighbouring states

Timings, fees, permits and road conditions change. Please check official sources before you travel.